ULTIMATE REVIEW GUIDE

BY FRAN SCHUMER

It’s hard not to love a restaurant that lets children roam the premises. This one also serves first-rate pizza. For children, it’s presented with mild sauce and a face (olive eyes, mushroom nose, and an ingenious eggplant brow); for adults, with more adventurous toppings (andouille, soppersato, or crawfish). Among other X-rated dishes is a heady mussel chowder, spiked with champagne, while in the “G” category is excessively sweet and gloppy peanut butter pie. For children, the management has thoughtfully provided apple juice and floor space; for adults, Dixie beer.


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